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Pupa Milano’s Playful Legacy and Global Ambitions at 50

Beauty Rival December 28, 2025 4 minutes read
Pupa Milano’s Playful Legacy and Global Ambitions at 50

BeautyRival – For many Italian girls growing up in the ’80s and ’90s, Christmas magic came wrapped in a Pupa Milano makeup case. These were not ordinary beauty products, but imaginative objects shaped like toys, animals, or music boxes, filled with hidden compartments waiting to be explored. At a time when makeup felt serious and grown-up, Pupa introduced play, color, and curiosity into daily routines. That early emotional connection mattered. It taught young users that beauty could be expressive rather than intimidating. This sense of wonder became the brand’s signature, turning makeup into a personal ritual rather than a rulebook. Decades later, those memories still resonate, proving that Pupa’s appeal was never just about products, but about how they made people feel seen, creative, and free to experiment.

Fifty Years of Creativity Rooted in Italian Spirit

Founded by Angelo Gatti, Pupa Milano emerged with limited resources but unlimited imagination. From the beginning, the brand positioned itself as inclusive, accessible, and unmistakably Italian in spirit. Its growth into a nearly €100 million business by 2024 reflects the strength of that original vision. Makeup now represents the vast majority of sales, underscoring how deeply the brand is rooted in color cosmetics. According to CEO Valerio Gatti, the second generation leading the company, creativity was not a marketing choice but a necessity. With no financial power, the brand relied on ideas. That mindset shaped Pupa’s DNA and allowed it to stand apart in a conservative beauty landscape. Even today, that same creative courage fuels its relevance across generations.

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Iconic Products That Redefined Beauty Playfulness

Pupa Milano’s history is marked by products that challenged norms and anticipated trends. From the first Bouquet kit in 1975 to refill concepts introduced as early as 1985, the brand consistently pushed boundaries. Innovations like mascara with built-in mirrors and suitcase-style kits with lighting transformed makeup into a portable experience. During the ’90s, animal-shaped and music box kits cemented Pupa’s playful reputation, while expansions into fragrances and men’s grooming showed strategic curiosity. These products were not gimmicks; they were statements. Each launch reinforced the idea that makeup could be joyful, expressive, and empowering. That willingness to experiment created emotional continuity, allowing women to grow older while still recognizing the brand that once sparked their imagination.

Staying Relevant Without Losing the Brand Soul

As the beauty market accelerates, Pupa Milano faces intense competition from low-cost and indie brands. Yet its strategy avoids price wars, focusing instead on creative differentiation. Bestsellers like the Vamp! mascara and viral lip products show how heritage can coexist with modern trends. The formula remains unchanged: express the brand’s DNA in contemporary language. Social platforms like TikTok have amplified this approach, helping products reach younger audiences without alienating loyal consumers. Gatti emphasizes that relevance does not mean reinvention at any cost. By staying true to its playful, expressive roots while updating formulas and communication, Pupa proves that longevity in beauty depends more on identity than constant disruption.

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From Italian Favorite to Global Beauty Contender

Pupa Milano is now present in 70 countries and 12,000 retail doors, with wholesale driving most of its revenue. While Italy remains its strongest market, growth across Europe, Canada, and Argentina highlights its international appeal. Emerging markets like Brazil and Tunisia further signal global potential. Digital channels, though still a small percentage of sales, offer flexible testing grounds for future expansion, including the U.S. and India. As a private company, Pupa benefits from agility, adapting distribution strategies to local realities. This flexible mindset allows the brand to scale thoughtfully, balancing ambition with sustainability. Global growth is no longer a question of if, but how carefully it is executed.

Navigating Market Pressures With Agility and Vision

Despite its strengths, Pupa Milano faces challenges, particularly in its domestic market. Declining purchasing power and fragmented offerings have reshaped consumer behavior, squeezing mid-priced brands. Gatti acknowledges these pressures with realism, projecting a slight revenue dip in 2025. Yet his tone remains measured rather than alarmist. The brand’s diversified footprint and creative positioning provide resilience. By focusing on innovation, selective collaborations, and flexible distribution, Pupa aims to weather short-term turbulence while protecting long-term value. In a crowded and unpredictable beauty landscape, its greatest asset remains the same as it was 50 years ago: the ability to adapt without forgetting who it is.

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